The Spring of Discontent, Tempered by Duck Eggs

Our final CSA pick up was last week, so I'm savoring the last of the goodies. In this bundle: potatoes, onions, garlic, leeks, cabbage, celery root (supposedly good for soups, but I haven't tried it yet), squash, carrots and parsnips.

Now, it's the long wait until asparagus picking, perhaps in April or May. In spite of the greening and warming all around us, this is when local food shares dwindle and new growth hesitates. In the natural order of things, it's a hungry time. If it weren't for the approach of planting season (I'll probably put broccoli and greens in the garden in two scant weeks), I'd hardly know what to do with myself.

Yesterday, I had my friend Maria over for lunch after a lovely walk on the High Line Canal. She helped me pull together a pot of potato leek soup in no time flat -- and as a treat, we each had a fried duck egg (the first I've tried from my Eastern Plains Natural Foods share).

The duck egg's white was a little rubbery, I'll admit, but the yolk was heaven: a rich, weighty, upright, orange-hued jewel of just the right viscosity. It reminded me of some spectacular turkey eggs I enjoyed for my birthday last spring, thanks to the Santa Fe Farmers' Market.

Whether you're a potato leek fan -- or have never had it -- you might like to give my recipe a try. It started with a recipe I found online, which turned out to be a little too strong (onion-wise) for me. I think I've got it about perfect now, and would gladly eat it days on end. It brings back my time spent in London during grad school, when I had this soup (served in a bread boule) after seeing a matinee of Measure for Measure at the Old Vic. Yum.

Potato Leek Soup

1. In stock pot, saute 1/2 - 1 chopped onion and 1 thinly sliced leek (only the white and light green parts) on medium heat in 3T butter until they begin to brown.

2. Add 5-7 thinly sliced, palm-sized yukon gold or red potatoes.

3. Cover potatoes and onion mixture with 32 oz. chicken stock/broth.

4. Simmer at medium until potatoes are fork tender (20-30 minutes).

5. Lower temperature and use potato masher to reduce soup to desired consistency.

6. Add 1/2 - 1 cup cream.

7. Continue cooking at low for a few minutes, stirring often.

8. Serve alone or with rustic bread, and enjoy.